2015 Cobalt Front Frame Rail Sectioning Guide Ebook 2015 Cobalt Front Frame Rail Sectioning Guide currently available at gotujznami.eu for review only, if you need complete ebook 2015 Cobalt Front Frame. Rearward from the front frame rail bumper bracket, on the top. Grind the existing frame rail sectioning location to. Die-mark indicators as a guide. About 3 weeks ago I was installing new coilovers into the driver's side front of my 99. While under there, I noticed that the bottom of my frame rail was soft and that there were pieces of it just sitting in there loosely. These were the biggest pieces that were loose and I was able to pull out with my hand: This is what the driver's side rail looked with no loose pieces remaining: The other side looks much better: This is all very shocking and unexpected as the rest of the underside of the car is undercoated nicely with a clean floor pan. Of course, that was the only part of the car I could see while checking it out for purchase, and the rusted part was hidden behind the left front wheel. Also, while loosening the long bolt, I heard a loud cracking sound. I still do not know if this sound was the bolt breaking loose or my frame cracking where the ratchet was contacting it. Please help guide me towards the best way to take care of this. First it was the damaged crankshaft keyway, and now this. And I haven't even put 100 miles on the car yet. Yes, I have seen the repair kit I need on a British website but have not been able to find any in the US. I will continue my search or see if they would be able to ship one out. My neighbor has a MIG and has worked with metal for decades so I'll show him and see what he thinks of it. As for safety, do you guys think it's too unsafe to drive? There is still decent metal on the sides and top of the rail. Also the strut towers are in good condition with no rust. This may be the repair kit you know about; if not, it is worth checking out. Since the listed price includes VAT (Value Added Tax), which is not charged on items shipped outside the UK, the actual price will be cheaper. Here is a discussion about these repair panels, including photos of them installed, on MX5Nutz, the major website for the MX5/Miata in the UK, similar to Miata.net: () Note that these are just for the front section of the frame rails, the area where severe rust is typically found. Also note that the repair kit maker writes that the repaired frame rails will be similar to NA frame rails -- so somewhat less strong than the NB frame rails (the folded metal that creates the NB rust problem also makes the NB frame rails stronger -- until they rust away). Rusted frame rails can also be repaired from stock metal, either by a body shop or DIY, if you have the skills. Once the frame rails are repaired, you may want to install one of the frame rail reinforcement kits to add strength and protection, and chassis stiffening. These even improve NB2s with all the Mazda chassis stiffening parts (and intact OEM frame rails). Examples include the kits from Flyin' Miata (), Boss Frog (), Garage Star (), V8 Roadsters (), Jass Performance () (interesting note: on its US website, Moss lists the Boss Frog frame rail parts; on its European website, it lists the Jass frame rail parts), and I believe there are some others. (Disclosure: I bought the Flyin' Miata frame rail kit for my '04, mainly to protect the fragile frame rails from damage.) Bill. 2018 Cobalt Front Frame Rail Sectioning GuidelinesThe Entire 2015-2016 winter. I bought the car for 2k in October 2015. I now know why it was so cheap. More or less had to buy a welder and learn how to wield. Had to cut the complete lower channel frame piece out then had a local metal shop make me the new channels and weld them in. Hardest part was getting all the rust/cancer out. If you're lucky the rust hasn't spread to the frame above the engine cradle. If it has it's total loss. You literally run the risk of the entire engine/front drive train failing off the car. Don't get me wrong though the repair is completely do-able it just comes down to how much time you're willing to invest. The repair literally only cost me $170. $100 for the welder and $70 for the frame rails. Hardest part was getting the sway bar brackets put back in (in the right place) and creating new radiator mount bracket holders. By using or viewing this site YOU agree to Hold Harmless anyone associated with it including other members. Also, YOU agree that YOU are solely responsible for ANY and ALL actions, results or damages. 1988 mallard motorhome for sale. A few more pictures at this link. I brought up the issue of checking the rest of the car for rust as part of your decision making process. 132k is pretty low mileage. I have a 99 with 191k, and am right in the middle of a pretty major rust repair job(rear quarter panels on both sides and a bit of rocker rust). I wasn't aware of the tendency for the front frame rust until seeing your post. I'd never thoroughly inspected this part of my car, and there is indeed some repair needed on the driver's side, although not nearly as bad as either side on yours. But this will be one more project for me, albeit hopefully a short one. I bought patch panels for the rear quarter panels from BTDT racing, and installed them with 3M panel adhesive and pop rivets. No welding involved.
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